Cruiser's Stories - Volume 9

Welcome to the SaltySailors.com cruiser's story pages.  Many cruiser's are sharing their adventures....

did i really do that???

by Hal Schade, s/v Griffin

If you spend any time cruising on a boat you can be assured that, from time to time, you will do things that just baffle you and greatly entertain others.

Long ago and far away when Griffin was in Port Aransas, Texas this little event happened.

Griffin had been dock-locked for some time and a beautiful day brought out the urge to leave the slip and venture beyond the jetties. The usual preparations began, and as with any live-aboard-going-nowhere boat, lots of time was consumed getting her ship-shape. WHY do we need all this stuff sitting around?

OK, sail cover off, engine warmed up, instruments on, shore power disconnected, checklist complete, adequate dock hands assembled to ensure proper take off.

All hands at the ready, so the skipper ceremoniously plops his butt at the helm, ready to calmly pull out.

The outward appearance of confidence is essential when departing in front of friends. The calm look masks the butterflies inside. The wind in Port A is always at 15 knots from the starboard quarter and Griffin pulls to port, so departure can be a challenge if the boat next door is to be avoided.

Gather your thoughts, grasp the throttle and wheel and…whoops…NO WHEEL!!!

I’m staring at the binnacle with no wheel attached.

Three months of slip-sailing had been improved by removing the wheel and putting it in the storage shed. Ah, a spacious cockpit.  OK, what to do? Play it cool and find the vice grips to steer with? Claim someone has stolen the wheel? Stall the engine and curse the fuel?

No, just calmly (since you haven’t used it all up yet) get up, say you’ll be right back and head (again calmly) for the car. In Texas we call this move a mosey. Drive the 5 minutes to the shed, retrieve the wheel, return to the docks and gird yourself for the ridicule.

Now, if they are going to laugh why not make them laugh with you, not at you? As I moseyed down the dock with wheel proudly held in front of me in the steering position, I asked all I passed, “Excuse me, have you seen my boat? Last time I saw her she was attached to this?”

After that the rest of the departure was a breeze…    

an unfortunate reef encounter

by Bob Smith, s/v Defiance

On June 16, 2005 at 3:30am, the sailing trimaran CHOUPIQUE struck the reef just South of Xcalak, Mexico, just inside the Belizean border.

The following is a reprint of a letter sent to the American Consulate in Merida, Mexico detailing the events before and after the incident.

Dear Ms. Smith: 

Thanks again for your prompt reply, but there seems to be a misunderstanding concerning the logistics of the rescue. I have always kept a daily log on my boat and I would like to share this information with you, directly as it was entered on a daily basis:

Thurs, 16 June ’05 

• 3:30 AM:  The sailing trimaran CHOUPIQUE struck the reef just south of Xcalak, Mexico, just inside Belize border.
• 3:40 AM:  Called for assistance to anyone within the sound of my voice (at this point I knew I was near the border but not sure of my exact position).
• 3:45 AM:  Xcalak Captain of the Port answered and informed me that help was on the way.
• 4:30 AM:  Two pangas (boats) appeared, one with a Mexican Park Ranger and the Port Captain on board and one Mexican Navy boat with approx. 6 sailors aboard.
• 5:30 AM:  Park Ranger attempted to pull the boat off, un-successful.
• 6:30 AM:  Navy panga was in process of taking me off the reef.
• 7:00 AM:  Both Mexican boats were told by a Belize Park ranger to leave Belizean waters and that a larger Belizean boat was on it’s way to the scene. 
• No boat of any kind showed up that day.

Fri, 17 June ‘05

• No help came.
• VHF radio failed (submerged batteries).
• Belizean Park Rangers came out to inspect damage to coral.
• Found minimal damage to reef (mostly fire coral).
• Also found minimal damage to the boat.
• I also made an underwater assessment along with the park divers and found only one hole, a cut about 8 inches long that could easily be repaired while boat was in the water, but boat had to be removed from reef first and quickly.

Sat, 18 June ‘05

• No help came today.
• I salvaged one of my boat batteries and re-activated my VHF radio.
• Damage to boat getting steadily worse from the constant pounding of the surf.
• Radioed my son-in-law in San Pedro and asked him to try to locate the proper officials and request help, he was un-successful in doing so.

Sun 19-June ‘05

• Still no help arrived.

Mon, 20 June ‘05

• Damage to boat getting progressively worse.
• Began calling on VHF for anybody within sound of my voice.
• Xcalak Captain of Port answered and informed me again that he was told to stay out of Belizean waters and that he could do nothing.
• I received several calls from Cliff Evans (Xcalak) who had been on the radio continuously trying to get me some help.
• As well as Steve from XTC dive shop (Xcalak).
• Son-in-law and daughter from Tulsa and two friends also from Tulsa finally hired a fisherman to bring them to the site, we worked all after noon trying to shift the boat away from the direct pounding of the surf using my (3) anchors, helped a little.
• They left around  5:00 PM.
• At approximately 9:00 PM a large hole appeared in starboard side of main hull (result of 5 days of constant racking and pounding from the surf).
• It was obviously time for me to leave!!
• The weather was worsening.
• In the process of launching my dingy I lost my fuel tank overboard and it was blown into the darkness and out of sight, so I began rowing.
• I estimate the time to be about 10PM when I started rowing.
• I headed for the Mexican Navy base, the nearest land other than mangroves.
• I arrived at Navy base at daybreak (6:AM approx.).
• The Navy Commandant graciously put me in a Navy vehicle and took me to the Port Captains office.
• I finally locate a private boat captain that agrees to take me out to get my personal belongings.
• We arrived at the boat at 3:00PM to find that the boat had been completely ransacked.
• There was nothing left but the bare mast and the diesel and clothing etc. scattered around.
• I estimate that from first light until I got back to the boat, approx 8-9 hours had elapsed, the time the Belizeans had to strip the boat.

Note: around 21 June, the Belize Diplomatic Office in Washington DC issued a bulletin that said the Belizeans had in fact rescued me and my boat from the reef on June 20!

EVER TRIED TO COLLECT INSURANCE ON A SUNKEN BOAT THAT HAS BEEN OFFICIALLY AND SUCCESSFULLY RESCUED BY THE LOCAL GOVERNMENT AND VERIFIED BY YOUR OWN AMERICAN CONSULATE??????

A couple days later a Belizean (with several of his buddies) came to see me and offered to sell my Passport (taken from my boat) back to me for 750 pesos.  I had no choice but to make the purchase.  A few days later when I was arranging to head south by bus the Mexican Port Captain came to inform me "not to cross the Belize border," The Belizeans had issued an order to confiscate my passport and hold me under arrest and fine me $6000 USD for damage to the reef.

Bob is currently re-fitting his new boat "Defiance" a 31' Friendship Sloop in the Rio Dulce, Guatemala.  He stays away from Belize!