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Tobacco Cay, Belize

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Cruiser's Stories - Volume 10

Welcome to the SaltySailors.com cruiser's story pages.  Many cruiser's are sharing their adventures....

to arms to arms a troll is on the loose!

by Howell Cooper, s/v Why KnotHowell & Jo Cooper, s/v Why Knot

All boaters, but especially sailors have a bit of a problem yet to be completely defined.  Perhaps it is something we all accept, especially cruisers “out there” for extended periods of time.  After much study, and more than a few recent incidents, I have actually determined the problem to be a Troll. 

I speak of that little dirt bag that has a secret locker, known only to himself, in which he retreats with that item you just laid down whilst working on a project.  He does take some pity on the crew in times of peril, but he is merciless at the dock.  More to the point, he is merciless to the male in the crew. 

I am not sure if he challenges the younger sailors quite a much as those of us who fit into the tastier crowd, those of us who, from time to time, may have an adult beverage whilst repairing some tedious little gizmo deep in a locker through which we know we can make only one attempt before the knees or back locks up.  You know the locker; we all have at least one where you get one shot and one shot only to attach the dooderflaam to the quirkwhirler.  You have deftly staged the former on a ledge you can only reach one time.  You take a break, have some water, wipe your brow and dive in only to find the item in question has been stolen by --- Little Prick, the Troll.  That’s what our Troll is called.  He scurries around at the speed of light hiding stuff you saw not two minutes ago.  I have decided that Little Prick came with the boat, ensconced in a locker he built somewhere just after the boat wrights took off one afternoon.  He is a clever Little Prick.  Even they did not know the location of the lair. 

I am equally convinced Little Prick likes to work on the frustration quotient by occasionally leaving the item where my mate can find it easily.  I just looked there, says I.  You must be blind, says she when she hands the part to me.  I can look for hours for a tool and she can find it on one pass through the cabin.  Little Prick waits until I pass then pops out of one of his passageways with an invisible trap door at the speed of blink to leave the part before my mate.  I am sure he does this at the speed of blink so that my mate does not see him do it.  She thinks I have lost my mind. 

Little Prick is a menace and I suspect he is part of a greater conspiracy to get us.  If I ever catch him, I will force him through my Baja filter then throw him in the diesel tank for further processing.  Only then, will I truly be the master of Why Knot.   AddThis Social Bookmark Button


an adventurous trip:  belize to honduras

by Yvonne Cameron, s/v Usquaebach

Have to tell the story of Lighthouse Reef.  Before arriving there we were in Cucumber Beach Marina south of Belize City.  Left there headed to Water Caye.  Got to Water Caye then the starter motor decided Map of Belizeto catch fire.  Never fun, but we dealt with it.  A tow from a great guy we’d met in Cucumber got us back to their docks.  Miracles of miracles, we got the starter rebuilt and were back to Water Cay within 24 hours.

Met s/v Kaija’s Song at Goffs Caye about noon.  Dinghied to the Caye, had a thunderstorm or two, dinner aboard, said our farewells and were off to Lighthouse Reef at first light.  Great Sail – hello, sail only- to Tureneffe.  Then had to motor sail east, slightly north east to get to Lighthouse.

If I knew then what I know now I would have been too chicken to have attempted to get into Lighthouse Reef atoll.  But others had done it successfully, so what the hey, so could we.  The entrance was not even close to what the guide books said.  All we had were way points we had been given several years ago by a sailor we didn’t really know who had been there before us.  And just as we were about to make the commitment to enter, we started getting faulty readings from our depth sounder.  Right, just what you need….wrong!  We pulled out the hand held depth sounder and by then the on board depth sounder had settled down so we “sailed on”, with only a few white knuckles.

To get in you line up the outside wreck with the inside wreck (what does this tell you…there’s a clue here) then you head east and a little south, then at some magical way point you turn left for about a quarter of a mile then turn right for about a quarter of a mile then proceed south till you get to the far east side of Half Moon Caye.  Right, you got it…east, a little north, a little east, and then a soft curve toward the south.  Well, whatever, we made it past the affectionately named “coral garden" where there is only 3 ft. of water and trust me you could see the coral heads quite clearly.  What you couldn’t see was where the deep water was.

We made it past all the really bad stuff and were slowly, very slowly moving toward the beach; I am calling out the depths, 7 ft. & holding,  7 ft. & holding, 6 feet & holding, 6 feet  & holding, 5 ft.! – time to stop!  Which it was, cause that’s when we went “crunch”.  Oh @#!*, we’re on a coral head!  Not on the dangerous reef, just not a soft bottom like the Chesapeake.  I only heard that crunch once in over 2000 nautical miles, but I just knew I’d hate that sound when it came…So, Don is going to kedge us off, is lowering the dink when the Ranger for Half Moon Caye comes on the VHF.  “Sail boat off Half Moon Caye, what are your intensions.”  I pick up the hand held and say, “what did you say?”  He asks me to identify the vessel, which I did.  Again he asks our intension and he points out that we’re in a protected Belize marine reserve.  “Yes sir” I reply “please stand by” at which time I hand the radio to “Captain Don."  Don tells him: “our intensions are to anchor here as soon as I get free of the bottom, we are aground sir."  No big whoop from the Ranger, he just says, “ok, sorry I wasn’t at the station when you were coming in, would have told you you were in shallow waters."  Great, now you tell us!  We had tried to hail them for info. earlier.

Don rows the dinghy to the bow and I have to let the big anchor down slowly into the dink.  Don reminds me that he wants the anchor in the dinghy, not through the bottom of the dinghy!  She’s a heavy sucker but I did manage to lower her gently and Don rows it out a few yards and plants it to port.  Back on the boat he attempts to kedge us off, no luck.  He could have tried again but must have thought it would not work.  He calls the Ranger and asks for assistance.  The very cordial Ranger says, “no problem I’ll launch a boat right away.”  And so they came, the Ranger, his young son, and 4 other able bodied sea men.  Their first attempt was a no go.  Their second attempt broke their thin hawser.  By now Don had secured a heavy tow line just where he wanted it on the bow and tells them to head to port, told me to turn the wheel hard to port as far as possible and to gun it!  Hard!...which I did and in seconds, we are off the coral head.  By now it is after 5 pm.  The Ranger yells over, “please check in in the morning" (no overtime for this crew, I am thinking).  We anchor happily in 7 ft, where we should have been in the first place and pour a stiff one or two.  One for the Captain and one for me!  Though rations were low this was no time to save the reserves.

“Well damn it," I said, “you just had to go a little further” – now I must explain this remark was not made in a nasty way, I did say it with a smile, “you just couldn’t anchor in 7 ft. like the guide book said, just had to go a little further.”  With a fat scotch and a happy smile Don replied “well you know me, just had to go a little further to see what was there.”  Like I don’t know him.  If it weren’t for his curiosity, courage and tenacity, we’d never have made it as far as we had.  It was so awesomely beautiful, what’s a little crunch?

After a quick diner, we enjoyed the crystal clear water full of bioluminescence, the velvet black sky full of stars and the sound of the surf crashing on the reef.  We were at anchor simply enjoying the fact that we were where few people ever get to be.  At 10 am the next morning Don announces, “it’s time to go to shore and see what is here and to find the 4000 red footed Bobbies (birds).”  I figured when we got to shore we would have to pay Sylvester the Ranger for the tow and I had expected a fine for destroying some coral, but not so.  Met the ranger, paid our modest fee of $10 US per person, gave him a $10 dollar donation for his tow efforts, which was appreciated but not expected and presented his son with a 2 liter bottle of orange soda.

Sylvester’s son Isaac was our guide.  He took us along all the nature trails leading to the observation deck.  Once we’d climbed the 20 steps we were above the tree tops and then let out a gasp.  There they were, hundreds of brown and red footed boobies and frigates hanging on branch after branch in the tree tops.  Just under the canopy we saw the iguanas.  Grey and green ones, just lounging on branches with their heads into the wind.  Our favorite being the Wild Willie Iguana which are green.  (Oh how we have missed Bill, but no more so than seeing the Wild Willie Iguanas of Half Moon Caye.)  continued....

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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